Updated: Apr 16
"Physics of breaking waves is interesting, as long as you can study dispassionately from a distance; water at the wave crest moves in the direction of the wave, towards shore, however, water in the trough moves in the opposite direction, back out to sea. Opposite forces will first knock you down, then pull you under. When you attempt to rise-up the process is cruelly repeated; which is exactly what happened to me. Turned over and over, disoriented, uncertain what was up and what was down, I did my best to swim, but got nowhere. I found myself exactly where Samuel had warned me not to go.
Grappling, wrestling I was in a losing battle, and finally let go; unwilling to take any more punishment. Limp with not one second of air remaining in my lungs, Poseidon decided to spit me out. Water and foam nearly up to my chest I clawed my way towards shore…Samuel nowhere to be seen. Would have made a clean break if it were not for invisible forces pulling and pushing my body, ten feet out, ten feet in….tidal surge couldn’t make-up its mind. Slammed against coral outcropping sharp as razors hidden below surface, I was lacerated on shins and arms to the bone. Fighting was pointless, I didn’t have the strength, and even if I had, would not have been able to overpower the pressure of water against my body…..yet I persevered. Inches….I would have to be content with inches.”
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